Emeritus Vineyards: A Journey into Sonoma’s Pinot Noir Paradise
Tucked away in Sebastopol, California, Emeritus Vineyards is a winery that embodies the essence of Sonoma County’s agricultural and winemaking heritage. Specializing exclusively in Pinot Noir, Emeritus is a pioneer in sustainable viticulture, crafting wines that are as expressive as the land they come from.
The CA GROWN team recently visited Emeritus Vineyards to learn the story behind this celebrated winery. From its stunning estate to its commitment to sustainability, Emeritus Vineyards is a must-visit destination for wine lovers and agricultural enthusiasts alike.
What Makes Emeritus Vineyards Unique?
Emeritus Vineyards is located in the Green Valley sub-AVA of the Russian River Valley. This region is renowned for its cool climate and ideal conditions for growing Pinot Noir. The winery’s flagship property, Hallberg Ranch, was purchased by founder Brice Cutrer Jones in 1999 after decades of dreaming about its potential.
“The reason my dad really wanted to purchase this property and had the vision for this vineyard was because of the unique combination of soil and climate,” says Mari Jones, second-generation president of Emeritus. “We’re in a cooler part of Russian River Valley, where we get fog that lingers later into the morning. Coupled with the Goldridge soil, it was really just an ideal combination for Pinot Noir.”
Mari and her team have carried forward this vision and continue pushing boundaries while staying true to their roots. “My dad’s vision of Emeritus was to create one of the greatest estate programs for Pinot Noir in the world,” Mari explains. “And his vision was really focused on quality—on estate vineyards first and foremost—and then on the quality of product flowing from the vineyards through winemaking.”
A Commitment to Sustainability
Emeritus Vineyards is one of California’s wineries that exclusively dry farms its vineyards. Dry farming means they rely solely on natural rainfall rather than irrigation. This method conserves water, enhances the vines’ resilience, and produces fruit with exceptional flavor concentration.
Riggs Lokka, Emeritus’s second-generation vineyard manager, explains, “We allow rainfall to justify how vigorous the vines will be and how much crop they’ll produce.”
Sustainability at Emeritus goes beyond farming practices. The winery has taken significant steps toward becoming carbon-negative. They do this by reducing tillage, planting native cover crops, and sourcing eco-friendly packaging materials locally.
“Sustainability is not just about reducing our carbon footprint,” Riggs adds. “It’s about creating a legacy that respects the land and supports our team.” This ethos extends to their employees—several members of their vineyard crew have been with them since Hallberg Ranch was planted in 1999.
Mari echoes this sentiment: “Sustainability has always been at our core because we’re farmers first. Farmers tend to think in decades, not years… you always want your land to outlive you.” This long-term perspective drives every decision at Emeritus, ensuring that the land and its people thrive for generations.
The Wines of Emeritus Vineyards
At Emeritus Vineyards, Pinot Noir is more than just a grape—it’s a passion. The winery produces a range of single-vineyard and clonal selections that highlight the unique characteristics of their estate vineyards: Hallberg Ranch and Pinot Hill.
- Hallberg Ranch Pinot Noir: This flagship wine captures the elegance of Green Valley with bright red fruit flavors, silky tannins, and vibrant acidity.
- Pinot Hill Pinot Noir: This wine, grown on a south-facing slope near Sebastopol, offers darker fruit notes and a more robust structure.
- Single Block Selections: Every year, Emeritus crafts small-lot wines from specific single vineyard blocks, showcasing subtle variations in flavor profiles.
Winemaker Keith Hammond describes his approach as minimal intervention: “There’s not necessarily something that I’m trying to manipulate in the cellar to make [the wines] taste a certain way. And so sometimes, trying to do something can be a little tempting. You know, we’re winemakers, we’re fidgeters. We try to get in there and turn the gears.” This philosophy of nurturing the natural expression of the vineyard allows each wine to reflect its terroir authentically.
One unique aspect of Emeritus’ winemaking process is their use of what they call “suitcase clones”. This refers to cuttings brought from Burgundy by Riggs’ father and Brice Jones decades ago. These clones add an extra layer of complexity and exclusivity to their wines. “We’ve been able to propagate them and make a pretty unique selection of Pinot Noir that other people just don’t have,” Mari shares.
What is Vegetarian or Vegan Wine?
Wines are simply the fermented juice of winegrapes and therefore do not contain animal products. However, the process of filtering or clarifying wine after it is made (called “fining”) involves protein sources which may come from animals, such as albumin (found in egg) or isinglass (derived from fish). There are also fining agents that do not utilize animal proteins, including charcoal and clay-based options. For centuries, fining has been part of the winemaking process because the use of fining agents helps remove sediment particles.
If you would prefer to avoid the possibility of fining agents, look for terms such as unfined and unfiltered on the label. If you are avoiding animal products, you can look for bottles like those from like Emeritus wines, labeled vegan and vegetarian friendly.
Why Sonoma County Is Perfect for Pinot Noir
Sonoma County’s Russian River Valley—particularly its Green Valley sub-AVA—is widely regarded as one of the best places in the world for growing Pinot Noir. The region’s cool climate allows for slow ripening, which enhances flavor development while preserving acidity.
“The Green Valley is pretty unique,” explains Keith Hammond. “It’s the first place where fog from the Pacific Ocean rolls in and the last place it rolls out.” This extended cooling period creates ideal conditions for growing Pinot Noir—a grape known for its finicky nature.
Mari highlights Sonoma County’s diversity as another key factor: “Sonoma County has more soil types than all of France… we produce every commercially grown varietal in California.” This diversity ensures that there’s something for every palate while making Sonoma an exciting place for winemaking.
Visiting Emeritus Vineyards
Guests can choose from several tasting options, including guided tours that explore both Hallberg Ranch and Pinot Hill. These tours offer a behind-the-scenes look at sustainable viticulture and winemaking practices while providing stunning views of Sonoma’s rolling hills.
“There’s really not a bad time to come see it,” says Keith Hammond, reflecting on Sonoma County’s appeal. “It looks a little bit different each time, but it’s always a fantastic experience.” Whether it’s the vibrant blooms of spring or the golden hues of autumn, Emeritus Vineyards offers visitors an unforgettable way to connect with the beauty of Sonoma.
Why You Should Visit
Whether you’re a seasoned oenophile or simply looking for an idyllic getaway, Emeritus Vineyards offers an experience like no other. Taste their exceptional Pinot Noirs, learn about sustainable farming practices firsthand, and discover why this corner of California is heaven on earth. Emeritus Vineyards invites you to explore their passion for Pinot Noir and commitment to preserving Sonoma’s natural beauty.
Dive Deeper Into Sonoma’s Agricultural Riches
Beyond Emeritus or wine tastings at other noteworthy places like Merry Edwards. This corner of California offers countless opportunities for exploring locally-grown Sonoma food. Head to the weekly Sebastopol farmers market, try local food at The Barlow food hall or Oakville Grocery and have farm-to-table dining experiences at the laidback Handline or the Michelin-starred Singlethread. The bottom line is there’s no shortage of ways to immerse yourself in this vibrant agricultural community.
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This article was written by Aida Mollenkamp. Photo credit James Collier for CA GROWN.