Preserve Restaurant in Winters, California, has turned the farm-to-table food scene on its head by embracing the age-old art of food preservation. You’ve probably heard the saying, “Everything old is new again,” and at Preserve, they don’t just serve locally grown fruits and vegetables, they preserve them just – just like our grandmothers did.

Produce is at the heart of Preserve. We met with Head Chef Gene Hall to learn a little more about the restaurant’s unique approach to seasonal eating. When asked to describe Preserve, Gene explains, “We are a farm-to-table restaurant. We work with all the local farmers around the area using the best ingredients we can find. What makes us special at Preserve, staying true to the name, is preserving every item that comes in peak season and getting to play outside of the seasons by really focusing on preserving everything.” 

Preserving seasonal produce – so much more than just jams

When most people think about preserving seasonal produce, pickling and making jam are probably the first things that come to mind. Gene, however, embraces a far more inventive approach. He laughs, “We’re drying them, we’re making powders, confit-ing them, jams, marmalades, jellies, and we’re doing a lot of our own charcuterie here.” 

Each dish on the seasonal menu is developed to showcase at least one preserved item grown in surrounding Yolo county. Because the restaurant relies so heavily on these preserved ingredients, the menu changes a little less often than many farm-to-table restaurants – about four times a year. This thoughtful approach of working beyond the limits of the growing season while still celebrating the best locally grown produce is what truly sets Preserve apart.

Gene cracks a small smile and reflects, “In the last four years I’ve been here, I’ve gotten to preserve, you know….a lot. So, I built up an inventory, and now I’m working through that inventory.”

One of his favorite examples is the restaurant’s gnocchi. “We start with a barley whey that we make, foraged mushrooms and handmade potato gnocchi and it’s done with all the preserved mushrooms that we’ve done over the year. ”

Spoilt for choice: Yolo County farms

Yolo County is celebrated for its rich agricultural community, where more than 800 farms cultivate nearly 100 different crops and commodities. “It’s important for us in Yolo County to have a farm-to-table restaurant here, because we’re in the heart of it. This is a huge agricultural community,” Gene states, “You can walk down the street and find a farmer here. Our owners know all the great farmers out here and use them. There’s nowhere else we really need to go for anything. Mustard flowers and arugula are on the side of the road. There’s a farm a mile away. Why not present these items right here and showcase everybody around here?” 

Gene connects with most of the farmers he partners with through word of mouth – and that relationship works both ways. Local growers, and even foragers, are eager to partner with Preserve – and often will pop in to introduce themselves and share examples of what they grow or gather. 

Gene, however, is very particular about who he works with. With so many amazing farms nearby, he has the luxury of being incredibly discerning. It takes a lot to impress him, but for some producers, it’s well worth the effort. Gene laughs and admits, “Some people just walk in, our forager just walked in one day with a bunch of mushrooms. And now we’ve been working with them for, you know, almost two years and…hundreds of pounds of mushrooms later. 

Think about your drink: Creative cocktails and local wines

Preserve’s commitment to preserved ingredients extends far beyond the kitchen and onto the drink menu as well. Owner Cole Ogando proudly calls out one of the restaurant’s most popular cocktails, La Tienda, made with tequila, triple sec, lime, and his grandmother’s signature jalapeño jelly  (which also happens to be the only preserved item for sale at the Winters restaurant). The beverage program also supports Yolo County winemakers, with local favorites like Turkovich Family Wines, Berryessa Gap, and Ophiolite available on tap by the glass and by the bottle.

Preserving the community

While locally grown produce is without a doubt fresher and more flavorful, Gene also chooses to support local farms simply because he feels it’s the right thing to do. Preserve sees plenty of traffic from nearby Sacramento – and even travelers on their way to Napa Valley – but at its heart, it’s still part of a small town. With a population of around 8000, diners and chefs often have real relationships with the local farmers that they source from. He adds, “Getting to know these farmers over the years, that’s been a huge thing for me. And I think that’s probably the most important thing, supporting each other, not only for the great ingredients, but for the families.” 

Yes, Preserve Restaurant in Winters is worth the trip. Make an agritourism weekend out of it!

Despite the rural vibe, Winters is a short 30-minute trip from Sacramento and about an hour from San Francisco (when traffic cooperates). If you’re looking for a reason to head to Preserve Restaurant in Winters, there’s plenty – fabulous farm-to-table food, breathtakingly beautiful bed and breakfasts (with a u-pick flower farm), and countless farms and wineries to explore. Check out a few of our favorite Yolo County destinations.

Article and photography by Hilary Rance.